Amazonía en la Cosmética: PASSION FRUIT-Oil

Amazonía en la Cosmética: PASSION FRUIT-Oil: "PASSION FRUIT-Oil - ( Passiflora edulis , Passifloraceae) HARVESTING PERIOD FATTY ACID COMPOSITIO..."

AÇAÍ-Oil

AÇAÍ-Oil - (Euterpe oleraceae, Arecaceae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

The açaí oil represents a new cosmetic ingredient, originating from the Amazon forest, which provides many benefits for maintaining the cutaneous balance. Its structure is mainly composed of anthocyanins, phytosterols, and essential fatty acids (EFAs). The profile of fatty acids in açaí oil qualifies it as a special edible oil, mainly due to the presence of linoleic acid (Omega 6) and oleic acid (Omega 9), and is predominantly made of monounsaturated fatty acids (up to 61% ) and polyunsaturated fatty acids (up to 10.6%), both recommended for the prevention of cardiovascular diseases.

Among the phytosterols present in açaí oil are beta-sitosferol, stigmasterol, and campesterol, which are widely used by the cosmetic industry as a preventive for the aging of skin because they stimulate the metabolism of cells and reduce inflammation.

It is no coincidence that the color of the açaí is similar to that of red wine. Anthocyanins are responsible for the color and are an antioxidant substance that helps to fight cholesterol and free radicals. However the açaí has up to 33 times more anthocyanins than grapes.

POPULAR USES

The açaí fruit is used for the preparation of the regional beverage, “wine of açaí,” which is a reference to the red-purple color of red wine made with grapes, and is consumed in large quantities throughout the Amazon. It is estimated that the daily consumption reaches 180 thousand liters in Belém. Due to its high nutritional value (calorific content), the "wine-of-açaí" is part of the diet of the population and is the primary source of energetic food, having a superior calorific value and two times more lipids than milk.

Açaí as a food provides the following benefits to the human body (values for 100 g of fruit pulp):

- Total lipids (48 g) and Potassium (932 mg) for essential energy production;
- Proteins for the development of muscles (13.00 g);
- Fiber to help intestinal functions (3.15 g);
- Anthocyanins for the control of cholesterol, which are responsible for the purple color of açaí (926 mg);
- Iron for the oxygenation of blood cells (2.6 mg);
- Vitamin E (α-Tocopherol 45 mg), as an antioxidant for the prevention of cancer;
- Calcium for strengthening of bones and prevention against osteoporosis (386 mg);
- Vitamin B1 for the flexibility and maintenance of the skeleton (0.25 mg).

ECOLOGY

Açaí is found throughout the Amazon basin and is particularly abundant in the eastern region. It is one of the most common palms of the state of Pará, and dominates the landscape, sometimes in almost pure stands. Açaí prefers flooded and wetland areas and easily regenerates. There are two main species of açaí, E. oleracea, which occurs more frequently in the estuary of the Amazon River, and E. precatoria, which is common in the forests of western Amazonia (in the states of Amazonas, Acre, Rondônia, and Roraima). Euterpe oleracea develops multiple stems, up to 20 if it is not managed, forming what is called a "cluster." This undoubtedly makes this species an appropriate tree to cultivate for both palm hearts and fruits. Palm heart can be harvested by selecting only some of the stems, year after year, without killing the individual while it develops new shoots. The removal of older stems corresponds to a form of sustainable management for this palm. On the other hand, E. precatoria forms a solitary stem that inhibits individuals of this species from being used as a source of both palm heart and fruits.

In sustainable managed plantations, both in native açaí formations in the várzea and on terra firme, 400 clusters are recommended per hectare with a space of 5 m around each plant. Estimating a production of 50 kg of fruits per cluster, with 4 stems producing fruits, it is possible for these trees to produce 20 tons of fruit per hectare. In the floodplain the production is 30% higher than on terra firme. The extraction of the açaí oil corresponds to only 1% of the volume of the fruits, which is very low and corresponds to 200 liters per hectare.

REFERENCES

Açaí-solteiro (Euterpe precatoria), uma boa opção de exploração agrícola em Rondônia, http://ambientes.ambientebrasil.com.br/ agropecuario/artigo_agropecuario/acai-solteiro.html, (acessado 27/05/09).

CALVACANTE, P. B.: Frutas Comestíveis da Amazônia, 1996, 6a Ed , Edições Cejup - Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, Belém.

MORAIS, L. R. : Banco de Dados Sobre Espécies Oleaginosas da Amazônia, não-publicado.

NASCIMENTO, R. J. : Composição em ácidos graxos do óleo da polpa de açaí extraído com enzimas e com hexano. 2008, Revista Brasileira de Fruticultura, Vol. 30, N° 02.

ROGEZ, H. Açaí: Preparo, Composição e Melhoramento da Composição. 2000, Belém; EDFPA, pp. 313.

SHANLEY, P. et. al. : Frutíferas e plantas úteis na vida amazônica, 2005, CIFOR, IMAZON, Editora Supercores, Belém, p. 300.

RESIN of COPAÍBA

RESIN of COPAÍBA - (Copaifera spp., Leguminosae - Caesalpinoideae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

The chemical composition of the oil-resin of copaíba is thought to have approximately 72 sesquiterpenes (hydrocarbons) and 28 diterpenes (carboxylic acids), and the oil is composed by 50% of each of these terpenes. Diterpenes are attributed in the majority for therapeutic applications, a scientifically proven fact. Sesquiterpenes are partially responsible for the aroma of the oil-resin and also have antiulcer, antiviral, and anti-rhinovirus properties. Researchers have found that the oil-resin of copaiba has anti-inflammatory action. This potential was shown to be two times higher than that found in the diclofenac sodium, one of the most widely used anti-inflammatory drugs in the market.

One of the main problems with selling copaíba oil-resin is that it is adulterated, usually with vegetable oil. One of the conventional methods used to test for this is to determine the acidity; less than 80 mg KOH/g of oil-resin indicates contamination. The lower the acidity value of the oil-resin means that there is a larger amount of vegetable oil mixed in. In turn the ester value of the oil-resin of copaíba can help determine the type of contaminant. If the ester value exceeds 23 mg KOH/g of oil-resin, it indicates that the contaminant is a compound comprised of fatty substances, such as vegetable oil or something of animal origin, and if it is less it indicates that the contaminant is not a fatty substance, for example mineral oil. Small workshops are used to teach communities how to use the volumetric test. The solutions used for these tests are prepared in laboratories and last up to a year. These simple tests, which do not require a complete laboratory analysis, can help associations and cooperatives avoid accepting and selling oil-resin that is contaminated.

POPULAR USES

In traditional medicine there are many uses for the oil-resin of copaíba, indicating a wide range of pharmacological properties. It is used to treat respiratory and urinary tract infections due to its healing and anti-inflammatory abilities. It is known as a natural antibiotic that is highly effective against gram-positive bacteria. In the industrial-cosmetic industry, it is used as a component of fragrance in perfumes and in cosmetics, such as soaps and creams, because of its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and emollient properties.

ECOLOGY

There are several species of copaíba but, medically and cosmetically, all are used in the same way. Species of copaíba are adapted to grow in a wide range of environments, occur on both terra firme and in flooded areas, can reach 25 to 40 meters in height, and can live up to 400 years. The extraction process of the oil-resin of copaíba is still rudimentary. A hole is drilled into the wood with an auger, 60 or 70 cm from the ground, until to the center of the trunk. Immediately after the hole is drilled, a tube is installed below the hole to collect the oil-resin into a container that is placed on the ground. The oil-resin is collected during 7 to 10 days and at the end of the harvest the hole is sealed with clay to prevent infestation by fungi or termites.
It is recommended to collect the oil-resin from tress older than 10 years and with a diameter reaching at least 40 cm, harvesting two to three times a year. This process is considered a sustainable extraction method. On average 0,5 to 2,0 liters of oil-resin can be collected from an adult tree every harvesting time.
Seed germination is rapid; however, the trees grow slowly (up to 50 cm per year.

REFERÊNCIAS UTILIZADAS

FERREIRA, F. H. (1999): Potencial de extração e comercialização do óleo-resina da copaíba (Copaífera spp.), um estudo de caso na Floresta Estadual do Antimarí, Acre. Dissertação (Mestrado em Ecologia e Manejo de Recursos Naturais), Universidade Federal do Acre, Rio Branco, 54 p.

http://odontologika.uol.com.br/copaiba.htm (acessado 11/11/2009)

MACIEL, M. A. M, et. al.: Plantas Medicinais: As Necessidades de Estudos Multidisciplinares. 2002, Química Nova, v. 25, n. 3, p. 429.

MORAIS, L. R. B.: Formas Simples de Capacitação de Comunidades Amazônicas, Cartilhas de Capacitação Amazon Velas – Curupira da Amazonia, material distribuído gratuitamente em cursos de capacitação em comunidades que fornecem produtos.

PASTORE Jr, F. (1997): Banco de Dados de Produtos Não-Madereiros da Amazônia. 1ªEdição. Unb, ITTO, FUNATURA. Brasília.

PAIVA, L. A., et al. “Anti-inflammatory effect of kaurenoic acid, a diterpene from Copaifera langsdorffi on acetic acid-induced colitis in rats.” Vascul. Pharmacol. 2002 Dec; 39(6):303-7.

SHANLEY, P. et. al. : Frutíferas e plantas úteis na vida amazônica, 2005, CIFOR, IMAZON, Editora Supercores, Belém, p. 300.

TINCUSI, B. M., et al. “Antimicrobial terpenoids from the oleoresin of the Peruvian medicinal plant Copaifera paupera." Planta Med. 2002; 68(9): 808–12.

VASCONCELOS A. F. F. et. al.: Uso de Métodos Analíticos Convencionais no Estudo da Autenticidade do Óleo de Copaíba, 2002, Química Nova, v, 25, n.6B, 1057-1060.

VEIGA JUNIOR, V. F. et. al.:: O GÊNERO Copaifera L., 2002, Quim. Nova, Vol. 25, No. 2, 273-286.

WILKINS, M., et al. “Characterization of the bactericidal activity of the natural diterpene kaurenoic acid.” Planta Med. 2002 68(5): 452–54.

UCUÚBA-Butter

UCUÚBA-Butter - Baboonwood - (Virola surinamensis, Myristicaceae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

The butter of ucuuba has a high-melting point (53 °C) and saponification value (220 mg KOH / g oil), which exceeds the values of beef tallow (which range from 43 to 45 °C and 200 mg KOH / g) and makes ucuuba butter an ideal raw material that could replace animal tallow in the production of fine soaps, as well as replace other fatty substances in the food and pharmaceutical industries that need a high melting point. The replacement of animal tallow with the vegetable butter of ucuuba solves the problem of product contamination from the use of animal tallow and even gives soap more consistency and durability. Its employment is perfectly feasible even though it is more expensive than animal tallow.

The seeds are rich in fat (60%–70%), and 70% of the fat is composed of trimyristin, a triglyceride of myristic acid which is an aromatic essential oil that is important to the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries. Currently, this essential oil is extracted from nutmeg, which has a concentration of about 80% of this triglyceride.

POPULAR USES

Commonly, the oil is used as an ingredient of candles and to burn for light, which spreads an aromatic odor. In home medicine, it has been successful at treating rheumatism, arthritis, colic, ulcers, and hemorrhoids. The butter of ucuuba, which is hard and yellow, can be used in combination with other ingredients for the production of candles and plant-based soaps, and is a substitute for paraffin, which is made with petroleum. Soaps and creams made with ucuuba show a proven anti-inflammatory effect, and have healing and anti-septic properties. A mature ucuuba tree can be sold for R$ 5.00, which is then transformed into broom handles that are sold for R$ 0.40 each in the fairs and ports of Belém. However the seeds, which are sold for R$ 0.50/kg, can generate an income of R$ 18.00 to R$ 25.00 per year, assuming a productivity of 30 to 50 kg of seeds per year. The fruits are collected along beaches and streams throughout the Amazon region, stored, and sold to make plant-based butter that replaces animal tallow when making soap.

ECOLOGY

Ucuuba is a native tree of the floodplains found throughout the Amazonian region, extending to the states of Maranhão and Pernambuco. The indigenous name of the tree means grease (ucu) and tree (yba). This species prefers flooded regions, and reaches a height of 25 to 35 m. A mature tree can produce between 30 to 50 kg of seeds per year. The seeds are rich in fats (60%–70%) and extracts of oil / tallow can reach 50% per kilo of seeds (dry weight). A plantation with 150 trees per hectare can yield up to 7 tons of seeds per year, which can be processed into 3500 kilos of fat per hectare. Trees can grow 3 m over the course of two years. The wood is of excellent quality and is used for particleboard and laminated wood. The extraction of trees for these uses is endangering the remaining forest resources.

REFERENCES

LORENZI, H : Arvores Brasileiras – vol, 01. 1992, Instituto Plantarum, Nova Odessa – SP 384 pp.

MORAIS, L. R. : Banco de Dados Sobre Espécies Oleaginosas da Amazônia, não-publicado.

MORS, W.B. et. al.: Medicinal Plants of Brazil, 2000, Reference Publications, Inc Algonac, Michigan.

PESCE, C.: Oleaginosas da Amazônia, 1941, Oficinas Gráficas da Revista Veterinária, Belém/PA.

VAN DEN BERG, M.E.: Plantas Medicinais na Amazônia – Contribuição ao seu conhecimento sistemático, 1993, Museu Paraense Emílio Goeldi, Belém. 206 pp.

CUPUAÇU-Butter

CUPUAÇU-Butter - (Theobroma grandiflorum, Malvaceae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

The extracted oil from cupuaçu seeds offers fantastic properties for the cosmetic industry. The cupuaçu butter is a triglyceride that has a balanced composition of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, which gives the product a low melting point (approximately 30 °C) and an appearance of a soft solid that penetrates quickly when in contact with skin. Cupuaçu butter posses a high capacity to absorb water, approximately 120% higher than that of lanolin, and can act as a plant-based substitute for it. It contains phytosterols (especially beta-sitosterol) that operate at the cellular level to regulate water balance and the activity of lipids in the superficial layer of the skin. Its ability to absorb large amounts of water can be attributed to the hydrogen bridges formed between the water molecules and phytosterols. Phytosterols have been used to treat dermatitis and disorders by stimulating the healing process.

POPULAR USES

For the most part, only the fruit pulp of cupuaçu is commonly consumed, in the form of juices, ice creams, creams, and sweets. The removal of the pulp from the seeds is rather laborious and performed with scissors. In some regions the seeds are fermented, dried in the sun, roasted, ground in a mortar, and used as chocolate (also called cupulate). In general, seeds are a byproduct of processing the pulp and are underutilized and thrown away. However, because there is a growing interest of the pharmaceutical industry to acquire the butter of cupuaçu, the fruit pulp industries and cooperatives are beginning to separate and process the seeds in larger quantities.

ECOLOGY

Cupuaçu, a native of Amazonia, is a small tree that is 4 to 8 meters (when cultivated) or up to 18 m high (in growing in the wild). It belongs to the same family as cacao. The fruit is very large, cylinder-shaped with rounded ends, up to 30 cm long, and has an average weight of 1.2 kilograms. At maturity the fruits fall, without the stalk, when they start releasing a characteristic odor, which indicates that they are ripe. The fruit contains a juicy and creamy pulp, with a characteristic flavor, which surrounds 20 to 30 large oval seeds. The butter of cupuaçu, similar to the "butter" of cacao but superior in quality, is extracted from the seeds and contains approximately 45% oil. On commercial plantations fruit production begins in the 3rd year and trees produce an average of 12 fruits per tree, per year, when mature. It is recommended that 180 trees be planted per hectare, which produces approximately 2148 fruits per year, 990 kg of pulp, and 443 kg of seeds (an average fruit is composed of 38.4% pulp, 17.2% seeds, and 44.4% skin). In general, 1000 kg of fresh seeds will produce 135 kg of cupuaçu butter.

REFERENCES

CHLEBAROV, S. 1990: "Die Kosmetichen Eigenschaften der Phytosterole"1 TW Dermatologie.

MORAIS, L. R. : Banco de Dados Sobre Espécies Oleaginosas da Amazônia, não-publicado.

MÜLLER, C. H. et. al. : A cultura do cupuaçu. 1995, Embrapa-CPATU, coleção plantar 24, p.61.

WINKLER, A. 1977: Experimental studies of effect of water content of upper layers of human skin. Arztl. Kosmetologie,7 , 65-77.

BACURI-Butter

BACURI-Butter - (Platonia insignis, Clusiaceae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

The grease of the bacuri oil has a high absorption rate, due to its high level of tripalmitin (50% to 55%), which penetrates the skin quickly. The high amount of fatty palmitoleic acid (5%), compared to other oils (less than or equal to 0.5 to 1.5%), makes the bacuri oil a fantastic emollient, which can also be used as a moisturizing agent.

The bioactive ingredient tripalmitin is used in pills to slow the diffusion of drugs into an organism; releasing the proper quantity of a drug reduces the side effects of strong medicines that are absorbed by the organism according to pharmacokinetics. The current source of tripalmitin is from a plant commonly called Japanese wax tree (Rhus succedanea), which is originally from Japan.

POPULAR USES

The bacuri fruit is highly demanded in the markets of Belém and used for the preparation of sweets, cakes, jams, juices, and ice creams. Its seeds are not used and are discarded. The caboclos of the central region of the Marajó island have great difficulty removing the oil from the seed, because the seeds have to be soaked in water for over a year. They are then boiled and the oil is skimmed off the surface of the boiling water. The oil has phytotherapeutic applications and is popularly used on Marajó as a remedy against spider and snakes bites, as a treatment for skin problems and ear aches, and is considered to be a miraculous remedy against rheumatism and arthritis. The butter of bacuri gives a golden tone to the skin. It is absorbed a few minutes after it is applied and the skin becomes velvety to the touch; it also removes spots and reduces scarring.

ECOLOGY

Bacuri is native to the state of Pará, where the highest concentrations are found in the Salgado, Bragantina, and the Marajó island regions. This tree can reach 25 m in height and 1.5 m in diameter. It grows on terra firme and the timber is yellow, compact, resistant to rotting, and therefore is used in the construction of boats. The fruit of this species, which weighs 250 g on average, is oval and covered by a shell, which is 0.7 to 1.6 cm thick and 75% of the weight of the fruit. The edible part of the fruit is the endocarp, and represents 13% of the weight of the fruit. It is white, with a strong aroma and sweet taste.

The fruit usually has 4 oily seeds, and when dried (moisture content of 20%) they contain 72% fat, which is resinous and dark brown to almost black. The fat has an unpleasant smell and filtration is difficult. Pressing the seeds extracts approximately 40% of the oil. It is estimated that an average tree will produce 400 fruits per year. The number of fruits produced per year varies. A year of high fruit production is succeeded by one, two, or three years of low production. Propagation is possible via seeds, roots, and by grafting. Plants propagated by seeds mature12 to 15 years after they are planted while it only takes five to six years using the grafting method.

REFERENCES

CARVALHO, J. E. U. et. al.: Métodos de propagação do bacurizeiro,(Platonia insignis Mart.), 2002, Embrapa Amazônia Ocidental, Circular Técnica 30, p. 12.

MORAIS, L. R. Banco de Dados Sobre Espécies Oleaginosas da Amazônia, não-publicado

SHANLEY, P. et. al. : Frutíferas e plantas úteis na vida amazônica, 2005, CIFOR, IMAZON, Editora Supercores, Belém, p. 300.

PRACACHY-Oil

PRACACHY-Oil - Oil bean tree - (Pentaclethra macroloba, Leguminosae-Mimosoideae)

HARVESTING PERIOD

FATTY ACID COMPOSITION AND PHYSICAL-CHEMICAL DATA

At 19%, pracachy oil has the highest known concentration of Behenic acid, 6 times higher than that of peanut oil that is extracted and used by the cosmetic industry, in makeup and hair products, due to its excellent moisturizing properties . Studies have reported about the insecticidal ability of pracachy oil, specifically against the mosquito Aedes aegypti, which is the vector of yellow fever and dengue. Fractions isolated from the oil have important bioactive compounds with anti-hemorrhagic activity, which can be used in the treatment of snakebites, or possibly as a new drug for the treatment of other diseases.

POPULAR USES

The oil of pracachy is extracted in a rudimentary way through cooking the dry mass of the seeds, which are first macerated in a mortar. It is often used to treat erysipelas, a skin infection usually caused by bacteria, as well as for treating hair, which makes it brighter, easier to comb, and helps to avoid hair loss. In the city of Belém, it was commonly used to treat stretch marks of young-adults and pregnant women (with good results). The inhabitants of the Amazon region use the bark of the stem to combat the effects of poison from snake and scorpion bites. For this, the bark is soaked and applied in the form of a plaster on the site of the bite. Today the seeds are collected (along rivers, streams, and beaches), dried in the sun, and stored for selling.

ECOLOGY

This species is distributed throughout northern Brazil, Guyana, Trinidad, and some regions of Central America. The tree is medium in size (8–14 m), found in flooded areas, and forms half-moon shaped fruit pods, 20 to 25 cm long, containing 4 to 8 seeds. Approximately 35 fruits are needed to obtain one kilo of seeds, which contain approximately 30% oil (when the seeds are dry). Seed germination takes 30 to 40 days and the germination rate is relatively high; the plants grow fast in floodplains. On terra firme the plants tolerate selective pruning and are nitrogen-fixing pioneer species that show great potential for forest regeneration and restoration of degraded areas.

REFERENCES

PESCE, C.: Oleaginosas da Amazônia, 1941, Oficinas Gráficas da Revista Veterinária, Belém/PA.

MORAIS, L.R.: Produção de óleo de duas espécies amazônicas por prensagem: Bacuri Platonia insignis (Mart.) e Pracachy Pentaclethra macroloba (Willd), 2005, Monografia em Curso de Mestrado Em Química Orgânica, Universidade Federal do Pará,Centro de Ciências Exatas e Naturais 76pp. Não publicada.

SANTIAGO, G. M. P et. al.: Avaliação da atividade larvicida de saponinas triterpênicas isoladas de Pentaclethra macroloba (Willd.) Kuntze (Fabaceae) e Cordia piauhiensis Fresen (Boraginaceae) sobre Aedes aegypti. 2005, Rev. Bras. Farmacogn. vol.1 5 no.3 João Pessoa.

MORAIS, L. R. : Banco de Dados Sobre Espécies Oleaginosas da Amazônia, não-publicado.

DA SILVA, J. O. et al.: Triterpenoid saponins, new metalloprotease snake venom inhibitors isolated from Pentaclethra macroloba. 2007, Toxicon. 50(2):283-91. Epub.

LORENZI, H. :Árvores Brasileiras, 2002. Vol. 2, 2ª edição, Instituto Plantarum, Nova Odessa, SP, PP.368.